Our friend’s wedding beckoned us to Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh and we were all set to explore the Himalayan town which is also the abode of the Dalai Lama. Dharamshala is now a bustling hill station in the Kangra valley with a sizable Buddhist population. After an 11 hour drive from Delhi to Dharmashala navigating through road side farmlands, hilly towns, sharp bends, breathtaking scenery of towering cliffs and coniferous trees, we reached our destination and checked into a hotel. .
Dharamshala itself is divided into two distinct areas Lower Dharamshala, which is where most of the buses stop and which is mainly an Indian hill settlement and Upper Dharamshala which is more popularly called as McLeod Ganj, which has elegant bungalows and the cantonment. This is where the Dalai Lama stays, and it’s the focal point of the Tibetan community.
Lower Dharamshala has the Kotwali bazaar, bustling with shops on either side of the road selling everything right from locally woven shawls, scarves and souvenirs as well as ATMs, phone-booths, internet parlors and chemists. We went to the Kangra Art museum displaying crafts, artifacts and sculpture representing the rich Kangra heritage. There are old carved doors, pandals and furniture used by royalty, coins, jewelry and manuscripts, some dating back to the 5th Century
We went to pay our respects at the War Memorial which is located at the entrance to Dharamsala. It was built to commemorate the bravery and sacrifice of the Himachali war heroes. It’s situated amidst lush pine trees and beautiful landscaping.
We drove up to Upper Dharamshala. (Frequent buses too are available for the same) and passed by Forsytheganj (named after a Divisional Commissioner of British India.)and St. John’s Church housing the memorial to Lord Elgin (former British Viceroy) in the churchyard.
The Dalai Lama’s abode in Mcleodhanj is a burst of color and life. It’s a happening and diverse place with Buddhist monks, hippies from the west, continental restaurants and shops selling keep-sakes and curios. The main Tibetan temple is in the Tsuglagkhang Complex which is located a short walk away from the bus station at the center of town. The complex houses the residence of the Dalai Lama, the Namgyal Monastery (which trains monks for rituals associated with the temple), the main temple and a smaller shrine that houses a huge gilded statue of the Buddha. The Tibetan architectural temple offers a beautiful view of the Himalayan peaks in the distance. We sat in the in the prayer hall, and meditated for some time. The combination of the silence of the prayer hall, and the beautiful mountains around, transported us to a serene world beyond description. We bought a few prayer wheels from the market outside as gifts for family and friends.
After the temple, the other place we visited was the Tibetan Museum. The museum showcases the history of the Tibetan people, under the Chinese rule, the destruction of their culture, and the brutal treatment by Beijing’s dictatorial rulers.
We also visited Norbulingka, a centre dedicated to the preservation of the Tibetan tradition and providing training, education and employment for Tibetans. It’s set in a tranquil Japanese landscaped garden and has a temple in an elegant stone structure with a 14 ft gilded copper statue of the Buddha that was made by the Norbulingka Sculpture Studio. It also houses the Losel Doll Museum which has a collection of 150 costumed dolls depicting the regional, official and monastic costumes of Tibet. There is also a Norling Café and Shop, the former serving a wide array of Italian, Tibetan, Chinese & Indian dishes, and the latter selling products such as silk appliquéd hangings, cushion covers and bedspreads, and Tibetan boxes and chests.
We didn’t want to miss out on the Kangra Fort, located at the beginning of the Kangra town. The Kangra Fort was built by the Royal family of Kangra (The Katoch Dynasty), and is believed to be the oldest fort in the Himalayas dating back to1009 AD and offers splendid views of the Himalayan hills and the Kangra town.
We indeed had a welcome change in the tranquil heights of the Himalayan town and came back refreshed with memories and of course loads of pictures.
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